Leaning backwards off the tiny ledge into the open air, 100 feet up on a vertical granite wall, there was only one thought running through my mind. “This is gonna make a great blog entry.”
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There are a LOT of rocks to climb here. All the rocks in this picture are less than half of the rocks in the park. |
The sun blazed down on me that afternoon as my long-time adventure companion Geoff and I worked through the two-pitch sport climb known as, “Between Heaven and Earth” in the Hostess Gully at Castle Rock in South Central Idaho.
Geoff and I started our adventures together by joining each other’s Boy Scout troops on snowmobiling and snow-cave camping trips into the Island Park, Idaho area when we were both about 12. As time went on, we gravitated towards backpacking, and managed to pull off some fantastic trips, each worth their own blow entry. We summitted the Grand Teton, Mt. Borah, and too many other places to mention right now.
So, when Geoff suggested that this summer, instead of our traditional purist, intense backpacking quest for a mountain peak, we try spending a few days at the rock climbing Mecca known as “City of Rocks” I was skeptical.
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There were tons of little crags and places to boulder and play around on. |
He explained that instead of taking everything we needed in on our backs, we would simply put stuff in a vehicle, drive to a pre-arranged campsite, unpack, and then drive to different rock formations and climb to our hearts’ content.
“You mean car-camp?” I asked, my voice obviously tinged with skepticism. RV’s, KOA campgrounds, and the like don’t normally qualify as “real camping” with Geoff or I, and I was worrying just a bit about the friend with whom I had logged so many miles on the trail.
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Geoff. Good guy. |
But, I admit, the idea of having a cooler (which meant we could take a huge variety of backpacking-prohibited foods), a big tent, foot-thick air-mattresses, a sun-shelter, a big propane cooker, and various other normally contraband commodities eventually started appealing to me. Maybe I’m starting to get old.
Sometimes though, you really can have your cake and eat it too. Adventure was never in short supply on this trip, and adrenaline rushes went arm-in-arm with warm showers and drinking water we didn’t have to filter from a remote mountain stream.
When we arrived at Almo, Idaho, the tiny one gas-pump town that caters to visiting climbers, it was night. Despite the nearly full moon, it was hard to distinguish anything out of the ordinary in the fields beyond the barbed-wire fences. Then, after a couple of miles driving down a dirt road, the first one crashed into view. The size of a three story mansion, Camp Rock, where hundreds of passing pioneers signed their names, loomed imminently in the suddenly eery moonlight.
The next quarter mile of driving made us feel as though we had been entered the world of “Honey I Shrunk the Kids” as dozens of rocks, some larger, some smaller than Camp Rock, engulfed the black and white view of our new existence. And it wasn’t just the sheer size of the rocks, but their shape and character that made our jaws drop. Some rocks jutted defiantly at odd angles into the air, others looked like giant pancakes stacked high and waiting for their colossus makers to come eat them. Others were pocked and smoothed like swiss cheese. Our campsite itself was cordoned off on one side with a granite wall that could have been designed by a whimsically dreaming Fernand Petzl himself.
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The rocks next to our campsite. Yeah, they were pretty fun. Maybe too fun... |
Back to the tiny ledge where I stood a hundred feet up, working hard at concentrating my abundant adrenaline on belaying Geoff as he started up the face while the sun worked hard at trying to get through the SPF 50 sunblock all over our necks and arms. On this, the third climb of day two of our adventure to City of Rocks and Castle Rock, I was trying to avoid thoughts of what might happen if my anchor, a couple bolts epoxied into the granite wall, were to suffer an unlikely catastrophic failure and pull loose. Soon though, Geoff let me know he had anchored into the top and I was too busy remembering my knots and adjusting clips to think about anything else.
At several points on the way up to where Geoff now waited, it honestly looked like it would be impossible to keep moving up. But with some lay-backs, heel hooks, fingertip holds and the occasional faith-filled lunge and grab toward a hoped for hold, I found myself emerging onto a small, scoop shaped repository where Geoff and the top of our climb waited. The view from the top vindicated the climb’s name for me. Earth, or the base of our climb, was a jumbled, narrow, chasm full of trees and bushes. Heaven, or the top of our ascent, gave us an elevated view of the entire landscape on either side of the narrow stone spine, and the feeling at having reached the peak was exhilarating.
Looking back, it was during that climb that I started trusting the rock, my climbing partner, my equipment, and especially myself. There is a lot to learn from those silent, unforgiving, but steady rocks. For example, if there is no possibility of complete failure, can there be any true chance of genuine success? Facing that possibility made learning how to use our tools, partnership, and faith, essential.
Another key element of managing that risk and reaching the top was learning how to look at the circumstances presented in the environment one finds oneself in as opportunities instead of impediments. I was amazed at how much physical energy seemed to melt away when I allowed myself to entertain thoughts such as, “Well that’s a horrible arrangement for those rocks...” or “How am I supposed to get up there without a solid hold?” When instead, I commandeered my reactions and dictatorially proclaimed to myself that I would not stop until I reached the chains at the top, I was surprised at my increase in energy and the boldness of my moves on the rock.
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Geoff had me lead my first climb. This was a 5.8/9 and was a blast. |
Rappelling down off my philosophical perch, the rest of the trip was better than I had expected in a couple ways. City of Rocks and Castle Rock are technically two separate parks and a five dollar per vehicle entrance fee is charged for Castle Rock (no charge for City of Rocks). Despite the entrance fee and being geographically smaller, Castle Rock features a greater concentration of bolted “sport” climbs than City of Rocks, and the entrance fee also gives the occupants of your vehicle exclusive potty privileges at the nearby RV campground with its shower facilities. Nothing feels as nice after a scorching day of climbing as showering off the dirt, sweat, and sunscreen in a real, hot shower.
Driving from place to place (our longest hike was probably around 2 miles one way), access to running water, hot showers, and cooler chilled Powerades may not be my idea of a purist backpacking adventure. But, going to City of Rocks and Castle Rock was sure a great guilty outdoor pleasure that I now heartily recommend.